Black Diamond is a brand that specializes in outdoor gear and clothing. It was founded in Salt Lake City, Utah in 1989 and has since become a popular and trusted name in the outdoor industry.
Black Diamond produces a wide range of products for outdoor activities, including climbing equipment, skiing and snowboarding gear, backpacks, tents, headlamps, and other accessories. Their products are designed for both recreational and professional use and are known for their high quality, durability, and innovative features. In 2020, Black Diamond was named the best-selling climbing brand and ranked number one in both the hardware and harness categories in the SNEWS Dealer Survey. This annual survey is conducted by SNEWS, a leading outdoor industry news source, and provides insights into trends and performance in the outdoor industry.
In addition to their gear and clothing, Black Diamond is committed to sustainability and minimizing their environmental impact. They have implemented various initiatives to reduce waste, use sustainable materials, and support conservation efforts.
Frequently Asked Questions
What types of products does Black Diamond Equipment design and manufacture for climbing, skiing, and mountain sports?
Are Black Diamond products environmentally friendly?
Can carabiners that have been dropped still be used safely?
When should carabiners be retired from use?
To ensure safety while climbing, it is important to retire aluminum carabiners when they show signs of wear and tear. Here are some guidelines to follow:
- Check for gate action: If the gate rubs or sticks open, try cleaning and lubricating it. If this does not improve the gate action, retire the carabiner. The same applies to any gate locking mechanism.
- Check for excessive wear: If the rope-bearing surfaces of the carabiner are significantly worn, retire it. Wearing off the anodization is normal after a few uses, but if you can feel that the surface is too rough, it's time to replace the carabiner.
- Check for deformation: If the body or nose of the carabiner has deformed, or if the gate rivets have been bent, retire it.
- Check for nicks or deep scratches: If the carabiner has nicks or deep gouges beyond normal light scratching, retire it. The areas near the nose hook or within an inch of the bending radii of the body are more susceptible to surface damage.
- Check for exposure to extreme heat: If the carabiner has been exposed to extreme heat, such as in a fire, retire it and destroy it. The heat treatment the carabiner underwent during manufacturing may have been compromised.
- Check for exposure to harsh chemicals or excessive corrosion: If the carabiner has been exposed to aggressive chemicals, such as battery acid or petroleum-based fuel, or if there is corrosion beyond the normal thin gray/white oxidation layer, retire it. If corrosion starts to affect the gate action, retire it immediately.
Remember, only you know what your gear has been through, and if there is any doubt about the safety of a carabiner, it's best to retire it rather than take a risk. Trust in your equipment is crucial for climbing safely and confidently.
What could be the reason for the axles on a new C4 Camalot seeming too long?
What is the recommended amount to retract Cams for the most secure placement?
Could my old hexes be retrofitted with cable by BD?
What distinguishes BD picks with A B ratings from those with T ratings?
The B and T ratings on BD picks differentiate the intended use and strength of the ice tool. T-rated tools are designed for steep ice climbing, while B-rated tools are intended for mountaineering and general ice climbing. The ratings are determined by rigorous testing, which includes a 3-point bend test on the shaft, strength tests on the head/shaft interface, and a torque test on the pick. T-rated components have higher requirements and are generally more durable and stronger than B-rated components.
Choosing the right tool and pick depends on personal preference and the type of climbing. For mountaineering, the Raven, Raven with Grip, and Raven Pro are recommended, while the Raven Ultra is suitable for ski mountaineering. For technical climbing, BD's tech tools such as the Cobra or Viper with leashes, or the Fusion or Reactor for leashless climbing, are the obvious choices. T-picks are tougher and more durable, while B picks like the Laser are intended for steep ice and may be less durable. Competence and technique can also affect the durability of the picks.
How can I sharpen my ice picks?
To sharpen your ice picks, you'll need a round 1/8 inch chainsaw file and a good ski-tuning file. It's also important to have a high-quality pick on hand to use as a reference. Avoid using an electric power grinder, as it can overheat the pick and ruin the temper.
Start by filing the pick end first, trying to restore the original bevel angle without creating a half-moon shape out of the tip. Be careful not to make the tip angle too steep, as it can become very fragile. On the other hand, if the angle isn't steep enough, your placements won't be as secure. Afterward, file the flat hook on the bottom, stroking outward from you.
If there are damaged teeth, use the chainsaw file to repair them. Use the flat side of the chainsaw file to restore the original bevel of about 45 degrees, except on the first tooth. Take your time and use the reference pick as a guide, as filing off too much is worse than filing too little. Note that the pick should be replaced when you start filing past the first 3/8 inch tooth.
How can I sharpen my ice screws?
To sharpen your ice screws, first, secure wooden blocks in a bench-mounted vise. Next, gather a small flat file (6" flat mill bastard) and a four-inch "ignition file." It's also helpful to have another screw in good condition as a reference.
Start by working on the worst tooth first. Smooth out any burrs on the outside round radius, and ensure that the vertical part of the tooth is free of burrs while keeping the beveled edge intact and trending inward. Sharpen the tooth inward to crush and force the ice shavings inside the screw, restoring the teeth to their original shape with tips in the same plane. Try to remove as little material as possible, and avoid removing the radius in the corner. Touch up any burrs on the threads and pay particular attention to the starting thread. Finally, give the inside diameter a quick shot of WD-40. Always remember to dry your screws with the protective caps removed and use the caps for transit.